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Archive 2015 · Which macro lens to buy

  
 
Dalantech
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p.3 #1 · Which macro lens to buy


davholla wrote:
I have to say that is true. I quite like Dalantech's photos - one of the best I have seen on flickr.


Thanks!

I want to make it clear to everyone reading this thread that I'm not saying that you have to shoot the way that I do -far from it! What I am saying is that if you shoot macro (that's 1x to 10x magnification) that the amount of surface area that's reflecting light back into the camera is very small. Each individual pixel element in a sensor is like a bucket for photons, and you have to get those buckets as full as possible to get a good exposure. So you'll run into some hard limitations where exposure is concerned. If you use natural light as the primary light source, and you want to keep your ISO low to avoid noise, and you don't want to shoot with a lens that's wide open because you want to get some depth of field, then you're going to be shooting with some relatively slow shutter speeds (shutter speeds that are too slow to freeze motion). Odds are you'll have your camera on a focusing rail and a tripod and you'll be limited to shooting dew covered subjects -still life. If so then you're better off with a long focal length lens, the longer the better.

If you want to take images like this one...

Mantis Maintenance by John Kimbler, on Flickr

...then you're better off with a short focal length lens since you'll be using a flash. The closer you get the flash to the subject the better the diffusion will be, and the duration of the flash will be shorter (easier to freeze motion and get sharp images).

None of this is "shooting the way that I do" -it's just some hard physics.

We could also get into a lively discussion about the two types of photographers that I see these days: Those that settle on specific equipment and techniques and then go looking for subjects that they can photograph with them, or the photographers that let the subject dictate the techniques and gear that they use (I fall into that later category).



Jan 05, 2016 at 05:09 PM
kiernter
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p.3 #2 · Which macro lens to buy


I advise shooting like me (with the MP-E 65 and diffused MT-24EX).




Jan 07, 2016 at 08:42 AM
davholla
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p.3 #3 · Which macro lens to buy


A good photo but the OP should be aware that the MPE only takes 1x or bigger. You couldn't have taken this with it
IMG_9207scorpion by davholla2002, on Flickr




Jan 07, 2016 at 08:48 AM
Julian Nell
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p.3 #4 · Which macro lens to buy


kiernter wrote:
I advise shooting like me (with the MP-E 65 and diffused MT-24EX).



I really love your work by the way. The best jumper shots hands down.



Jan 07, 2016 at 09:38 AM
DeVil
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p.3 #5 · Which macro lens to buy


Dalantech wrote:
We could also get into a lively discussion about the two types of photographers that I see these days: Those that settle on specific equipment and techniques and then go looking for subjects that they can photograph with them, or the photographers that let the subject dictate the techniques and gear that they use (I fall into that later category).

-I fall into that later category too. I might add that my technique and equipment selection also depends on weather conditions.
I'm using D7100, sigma 150/2.8 old version (few days ago I bought sigma 180/2.8 OS ) and tripod for early morning natural light closeUps...
Mating damselflies by Predrag Petkovic, on Flickr

...and MP-E65, 5DmkII, MT-24EX for for real macro photos
Butterfly (Eastern Bath White, Pontia edusa) by Predrag Petkovic, on Flickr


kiernter wrote:
I advise shooting like me (with the MP-E 65 and diffused MT-24EX).

-Lovely image @kiernter. For beginners it is very difficult to use MP-E65.



Jan 07, 2016 at 12:59 PM
John Koerner
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p.3 #6 · Which macro lens to buy


IMO This is The Macro Champ:


The Sigma 180mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM APO Macro Lens

I just completed a blog entry about macro lenses, from the perspective of a nature photographer (not studio photographer), partially inspired by a member here (Gorm Tepper), who wrote a wonderful piece about this lens himself (which article I still have bookmarked, as it was really quite informative, and echoed my own sentiments).

I have typically held the belief that moving to a 3rd party macro lens was a step down (if not in image quality, in build quality).

However, all of that changed after reading enough reviews on the Sigma 180mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM APO macro lens, including Mr. Tepper's, and after purchasing it (and using it for over 8 months) I can honestly say it's [U]the[/U] best macro lens I have ever put at the end of my camera.

So I thought I would create a blog post, giving a detailed breakdown + list of important features (comparing 10 different macro lenses) that I hope proves both interesting and useful to those who are rubbing their chin about their next macro lens purchase

Hope it proves useful to some,that I hope proves both interesting and useful to those who are rubbing their chin about their next macro lens purchase

Hope it proves useful to some,

Jack



Jan 07, 2016 at 01:42 PM
Dalantech
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p.3 #7 · Which macro lens to buy


DeVil wrote:
...and MP-E65, 5DmkII, MT-24EX for for real macro photos
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8329/8429883818_fb01af869d_c.jpgButterfly (Eastern Bath White, Pontia edusa) by Predrag Petkovic, on Flickr


Agreed that the MP-E 65mm is not a beginners lens, but that shot is a great example of mastering it...



Jan 07, 2016 at 01:59 PM
Dalantech
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p.3 #8 · Which macro lens to buy


John Koerner wrote:
So I thought I would create a blog post, giving a detailed breakdown + list of important features (comparing 10 different macro lenses) that I hope proves both interesting and useful to those who are rubbing their chin about their next macro lens purchase

Jack


I like the blog post, but gotta pick a few bones with you

IMHO long focal length lenses lend themselves best to using natural light as the primary light source -if you're using a flash as the primary light source then the extra working distance of a long focal length macro lens works against you...

Your evaluation of the MP-E 65mm macro lens is incredibly unrealistic. If you really expect to shoot a bird with it, or anything else that's more that about 4" away from the lens, then you should sell it. It's a macro only lens, intended for macro photography. Trying to compare it to a lens that you'd use for wild life is so far beyond apples and oranges it's not even funny...

Last, but not least, you can use any focal length for active subjects...

Pollinators Series 3-3 by John Kimbler, on Flickr

Tech Specs: Canon 1D Mark III (F14, 1/250, ISO 200) + a Canon MPE-65mm macro lens (~1.5x) + a diffused MT-24EX. This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held. I am the finger model.

It depends on how much you know about the subjects that you want to shoot...



Jan 07, 2016 at 03:21 PM
John Koerner
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p.3 #9 · Which macro lens to buy


Dalantech wrote:
I like the blog post, but gotta pick a few bones with you


Thank you ... and no problemo




Dalantech wrote:
IMHO long focal length lenses lend themselves best to using natural light as the primary light source -if you're using a flash as the primary light source then the extra working distance of a long focal length macro lens works against you...


Which saves in expense.

The only reason you need a flash is for extra light, and if you have a focus distance that is greater, you have better light.

All things being equal, you also have better bokeh ... and a better chance of not scaring away the subject



Dalantech wrote:
Your evaluation of the MP-E 65mm macro lens is incredibly unrealistic. If you really expect to shoot a bird with it, or anything else that's more that about 4" away from the lens, then you should sell it. It's a macro only lens, intended for macro photography. Trying to compare it to a lens that you'd use for wild life is so far beyond apples and oranges it's not even funny...


Actually, I think your job of reading must have been incredibly fast

First, I rated these lenses as most for the money, most versatile.

Second, the resolution, stats, 1:1 (AF/IS/reach) and everything else are the overall highest of any lens.

Third, the MPE 65 most certainly is not "the most versatile, the best overall value" in a macro lens.

In the end, within the specific range of extreme macro photography, I rate the the MPE-65 the same as you do, Numero Uno



Dalantech wrote:
Last, but not least, you can use any focal length for active subjects...


True.

But you can't isolate the background the same with a 100 mm same as you can with a 180mm, same as you can't be as far away and get the same framing, either.



Dalantech wrote:
*image*

Tech Specs: Canon 1D Mark III (F14, 1/250, ISO 200) + a Canon MPE-65mm macro lens (~1.5x) + a diffused MT-24EX. This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held. I am the finger model.


Try getting a whole Tiger Swallowtail butterfly shot with the MPE 65mm



Dalantech wrote:
It depends on how much you know about the subjects that you want to shoot...


I can slip a set of extension tubes onto the 180mm apo and get a decent ~2:1 shot, easily as good as the MPE can produce, if need be.

However, I could never make the MPE:65 mm adjust and take a photo of a rattlesnake ... and I sure wouldn't want to get with the minimum 23 cm away to try, either

So, again, while the MPE is a great, highly-specialized tool ... it is quite limited in its overall usefulness.

Jack

PS: I appreciate the feedback, but really slow down and read what's being said. I believe we'll agree more than we disagree if you do ...



Jan 07, 2016 at 03:51 PM
Dalantech
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p.3 #10 · Which macro lens to buy


John Koerner wrote:
...Try getting a whole Tiger Swallowtail butterfly shot with the MPE 65mm

PS: I appreciate the feedback, but really slow down and read what's being said. I believe we'll agree more than we disagree if you do ...


But that's not what the MP-E 65mm is for -and that's the point that I'm trying to make. It's like getting disappointed in a hammer because you can't use it to unfasten a bolt...



Jan 07, 2016 at 04:05 PM
John Koerner
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p.3 #11 · Which macro lens to buy


Dalantech wrote:
But that's not what the MP-E 65mm is for -and that's the point that I'm trying to make. It's like getting disappointed in a hammer because you can't use it to unfasten a bolt...



Totally understand, totally agree. This is why, in the last paragraph I wrote about the lens:

"Having said all that, if you are into truly extreme macro photography, and if "the tiniest of arthropods" (or extremely-close arthropod portraits) form your main photographic interest, then please raise the Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x all the way up to the top of this list, because within the specific macrophotographic purpose of obtaining images between 1x to 5x magnification, this lens is without peer in versatility within the commercial macro lens category."

That was after my first paragraph, where I said:

"Okay, before anyone gets mad at me for placing this peerless macro lens last ... allow me to explain."

I just don't think you read the whole article ... because I think we'd agree



Jan 07, 2016 at 04:12 PM
Dalantech
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p.3 #12 · Which macro lens to buy


John Koerner wrote:
I just don't think you read the whole article ... because I think we'd agree


I did read it, and the way you evaluated it still didn't make sense. Typically when people are out shooting macro they don't care if a bird lands in front of them, and even if I had a 100mm macro lens in my hand it's the wrong lens for birding anyway (not enough subject to background isolation due to the short focal length -you said as much yourself). There's a lot to be said for having the right tool for the right job...

If you want to list the real negatives then talk about the weight of the lens, or how all of the weight is at the front so as it extends it feels unbalanced (a lot of people shoot hand held), or how you really should get use to shooting at 1x and higher (with tubes) before even thinking about buying one. The way the piece reads I'd seriously question whether or not you actually own an MP-E 65mm. And by publishing that article are you really saying that you have experience with all of that glass?...



Jan 08, 2016 at 02:38 AM
Dalantech
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p.3 #13 · Which macro lens to buy


John Koerner wrote:
I just don't think you read the whole article ... because I think we'd agree


Nope... From your article, emphases at the end of the quote added by me.

2. Minimum Focusing Distance: The very next factor to consider is how close/far you have to be away from the subject in order to photograph it at a 1:1 ratio. Do you have to be "right on top of" the subject to achieve this magnification, or can you get this same magnification from a few paces back from it? The ability to reproduce a true 1:1 ratio from a comfortable distance away is vital to macro/nature photography. Your particular lens may have wonderful specifications, but if this lens requires you to be too close to a live subject, you...Show more

I'm just gonna leave this here...

Feeding Bumblebee Light Test II by John Kimbler, on Flickr

Tech Specs: Canon 70D (F11, 1/125, ISO 200) + a Canon EF-S 60mm macro lens with 25mm of extension + a diffused MT-24EX (flash head "A" set as the key and "B" as the fill, both on Kaiser flash shoes). This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held.

Edit: Could also add that your assessment of working distance as a whole is off -long focal length macro lenses only make sense if you're using natural light as the primary light source. If you're using a flash then that extra working distance is actually working against you: Harder to get good diffusion due to the apparent light size principle, and longer flash durations when compared to a short focal length lens and a flash that's close to the subject (easier to freeze motion and get sharper images the closer the flash is to the subject). That's why the light source is so important when someone is considering getting into macro...






Jan 08, 2016 at 02:47 AM
John Koerner
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p.3 #14 · Which macro lens to buy


Dalantech wrote:
Nope... From your article, emphases at the end of the quote added by me.


If you want to try to pick apart a 14-page, 6700-word piece by citing one example where we disagree, because you could use a 60 mm lens on a baited bee, then be my guest.

But it doesn't disprove a thing. 100% of nature photographers will agree that 60 mm is *not* the ideal macro lens length for most wild, living subjects.

That you can find a few instances, in your home garden, or on your fingertip, where a 60 mm lens works ... means ... what?




Dalantech wrote:
I'm just gonna leave this here...

*image*

Tech Specs: Canon 70D (F11, 1/125, ISO 200) + a Canon EF-S 60mm macro lens with 25mm of extension + a diffused MT-24EX (flash head "A" set as the key and "B" as the fill, both on Kaiser flash shoes). This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held.


And I personally would never want to take such an image. It's too bright for my taste, and I am not an ultra-close type macro shooter.

Which brings us back to the point of the article (which you haven't grasped yet), so I will put it under your nose here: "I hope this information has been helpful, maybe even interesting. As mentioned earlier, *your* mileage may vary, *your* photographic interests may be different from mine, so use the factual information that is here and re-interpret it to suit *your* unique photographic needs."



Dalantech wrote:
Edit: Could also add that your assessment of working distance as a whole is off -long focal length macro lenses only make sense if you're using natural light as the primary light source. If you're using a flash then that extra working distance is actually working against you: Harder to get good diffusion due to the apparent light size principle, and longer flash durations when compared to a short focal length lens and a flash that's close to the subject (easier to freeze motion and get sharper images the closer the flash is to the subject). That's why the light
...Show more

No, your interpretation of my article is what's off.

Because, yes, exactly, I *am* a natural light wildlife macro shooter ... that was the only good call you've made, congrats.
I take photos of live, (mostly-)wary subjects, not baited bees on my finger or in my artificial garden.
No way are you going to get right up in the face of most arthropods (esp. butterflies) with a 60mm lens.
Your entire style of photography is predicated on artificial light and control of your environment.
(Which is fine, everyone has their passions, which is as it should be.)
Me? I personally never use flash, as I don't like the light. Shots like this is what I am after, with perfect natural light:



Again, if you actually read the article (from start to finish), it would be a more productive discussion. You would use the factual statistics on the table, and (because *you* like to get ultra-close, hand-hold, and add flash to your photos) *you* would re-shuffle the ratings to fit your unique photographic style ... rather than quibble with me over minutia, and my own photographic style, which only underscores the fact you didn't read the article. (Or didn't comprehend the point.).

Factually-speaking, however, there are some things you need to come to terms with: your little 60 mm macro lens in no way matches the overall usefulness of the Sigma 180 APO out in nature. Doesn't match it (specs-wise), in resolution, bokeh, reach, nor can it capture the same variety of images out in the field. A fast, wary butterfly landing 10 ft away would be missed by you. Can your lens get "some" macro nature shots? Yes. Is a 60 mm macro lens the overall most useful macro lens in nature? Not a chance.

But yes, there are certain subjects (bees distracted by slurping nectar) that will sit still and allow that close of an approach, but (let's be real) most natural subject will not.

Another indisputable fact is a 60mm macro lens will never achieve the isolate background blur that a 180 mm macro will get. Scroll down to the middle of this page for explanation.

Anyway, enough bickering. If you want to keep building strawmen, good sir, be my guest.

Jack



Jan 08, 2016 at 10:04 AM
davholla
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p.3 #15 · Which macro lens to buy


I have the Canon EFS 60mm and you can get some good photos with it. Occasionally I would like to be further away (not so much that I would like to get rid off it).
However you can get decent long range photos of birds etc with it.



Jan 08, 2016 at 11:43 AM
Dalantech
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p.3 #16 · Which macro lens to buy


John Koerner wrote:
Anyway, enough bickering. If you want to keep building strawmen, good sir, be my guest.

Jack


Not a straw man argument Jack -you simply wrote an opinion piece based on how you shoot and favoring lenses that fit your style of photography. But not everyone is going to want to shoot the way that you do...

This is the last I'll say about that article.



Jan 08, 2016 at 12:39 PM
Dalantech
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p.3 #17 · Which macro lens to buy


John Koerner wrote:
...But yes, there are certain subjects (bees distracted by slurping nectar) that will sit still and allow that close of an approach, but (let's be real) most natural subject will not...
Jack


There are multiple examples of hyperactive un-bated subjects in my gallery Jack, but I'll use this one to illustrate my point:

Collecting Pollen by John Kimbler, on Flickr

It was windy the day I took that shot -so windy that the bee couldn't tell the difference between the vibration induced by the wind and me grabbing onto the stem of that Sour Grass flower. The short focal length of the MP-E 65mm at about 2.5x allowed me to hand hold that shot and get the framing that I wanted -something that I couldn't do with a long focal length lens with or without extension tubes.

My point is that there are so many ways to take a photo, and none of them are wrong. Just because a lens fits your style of shooting that doesn't mean that it's "the lens" for macro -especially since you don't even seem to be a macro photographer...




Jan 08, 2016 at 01:02 PM
e6filmuser
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p.3 #18 · Which macro lens to buy


Jack,

I have not studied every word of the arguments but tend to agree with you about focal length for the larger subjects, although, with respect, I think you make too much of separation from the background. Getting enough DOF is more of an issue.

For magnifications below 1:1, if find my Kiron 105mm, on m4/3, equivalent to 210mm on FF, suits my needs. At 1:1 I use one of my Printing Nikkors, which are reputed to outperform the MPE-65 at 1:1 At higher magnifications, I will use my Printing Nikkor 150mm or Schneider HM 40mm (reversed) which may out-perform the MPE. (I have no comparisons).

I long ago rejected the Olympus 4/3 35mm macro because it snagged to many insect-supporting leaves, although I like its images.

Harold



Jan 08, 2016 at 01:10 PM
jongatmosfera
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p.3 #19 · Which macro lens to buy


John Koerner said in his article: "The ability to reproduce a true 1:1 ratio from a comfortable distance away is vital to macro/nature photography..if [your] lens requires you to be too close to a live subject, you may scare it away before you can get your shot."

I agree. However, let's examine what constitutes "comfortable distance," because it would be simplistic and erroneous to assume that comfortable distance always means a long working distance.

I'm using a Tamron 60mm that gives 1:1 magnification at about 4" working distance, to which I've added 2 sets of extension tubes (136mm total length) to bring me to 3.5x at about 3" working distance, which is quite comfortable for me and allows me to shoot live, active, and unbaited jumping spiders, wasps, and other critters without scaring them away.

Having satisfied the important element that a macro lens must not require you to be too close to a live subject to the point of scaring it away, the short (but not too short) working distance of my set-up allows me to employ Dalantech's left hand brace technique and to bring the diffuser close to the subject by positioning it above the edge of the lens. (Well, one could always position the diffuser a few inches forward from the edge of a long lens, but that would defeat the purpose of the long working distance provided by the lens.)

So yes, working distance is very important, but the working distance preferred by those who shoot at 1x or below and use only natural light may not work for those who shoot at 2x or higher and are compelled to use flash and must find a way to brace the lens on the same platform the subject is on, and vice versa.



Jan 09, 2016 at 02:34 AM
e6filmuser
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p.3 #20 · Which macro lens to buy


Using the brace technique is not an option for most of my subjects, which tend to be at my waist height or higher. However, I do use it when I can and find that a pole (Brian V's technique) can be a very useful alternative, if only to take the weight f the camera and lens.

All things being equal, a short FL makes framing easier. I have particular difficulty in framing with my 150mm Printing Nikkor, which is effectively a 300mm on my m4/3, but it can be worth it, not least because the ease of using two flashes mounted near the front of the lens gives excellent results. With that lens, as often as I can, I bring the subject to an outdoor table, where I can sit (oh, joy!) and use the brace method, plus further off-camera flash options.

Harold



Jan 09, 2016 at 02:52 AM
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